From the AHRI website (www.ahrinet.org), as it pertains to water heaters:
Whether your water heater is gas-fired, oil-fired or electric, if it was exposed to flood water, the unit should be replaced. In a gas unit, valves and controls will likely corrode. In an electric unit, the thermostat and controls will likely corrode. In both types, the insulation surrounding the unit will be contaminated and will be nearly impossible to disinfect.
Additionally, the insulation will take a long time to dry completely and may lead to corrosion of the tank from the outside.
Be sure that at time of the new water heaters installation, the Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve is new as well. Using a Temperature and Pressures Relief Valve that was subject to flood water is not advisable.
Prior to connecting the gas supply line to a gas fired water heater, ensure that the gas supply line does not have moisture/water or dirt/scale inside the gas line. Commonly this check is done at the lowest point in the gas distribution system prior to gas burning appliances.
There are three common ingredients required to generate the hydrogen sulfide odor that gives water its rotten egg smell: sulfur, hydrogen, and bacteria.
It is possible to replace the magnesium anode rod that protects the surface of your tank with a special aluminum alloy that will reduce hydrogen creation and lower the potential for odor. You can also completely remove the anode rod, but this is not recommended as it voids your warranty and shortens the tank’s life.
The best way to control odor is by reducing bacteria that is present in the tank. Sulfur eating bacteria is resistant to high water temperatures, so the best way to combat it is through sanitation.
The following steps outline the proper procedure for chlorinating a water heater:
Turn off the water and power supply or gas supply to the water heater.
Drain several gallons of water from the drain valve on the water heater.
Remove the hot water outlet nipple and Magnesium anode rod assembly.
Pour a 1⁄2 to 1 gallon of chlorine bleach into the water heater through the hot water outlet opening.
Re-install the Aluminum anode rod.
Re-connect the hot water supply line to the hot water outlet on the water heater.
Turn on water supply and draw water at each hot water faucet in the residence until a Chlorine odor is noticed.
Once the Chlorine odor is noticed turn off the faucets and allow the bleach to sit in the water heater and water lines for a minimum of 3 hours, but a full day is desired.
After Step 8 has been satisfied turn on and draw water at each hot water faucet in the residence until a Chlorine odor is no longer present.
Turn on the power, or gas supply to the water heater.
What causes a milky/cloudy appearance when running my hot water?
This condition can be caused by various factors:
Aerators at faucets introduce additional air to the water and when collected in a glass the agitated water appears milky or cloudy.
Additional air can be introduced to city water supplies at the pumping station when air is pumped into the water mains to increase pressure.
In private well water systems, artesian pressure can cause air entrapment.
When water utility companies switch from one deep well source to another, excessive air can develop in the system.
Soluble gases such as Oxygen, Chlorine, Carbon Dioxide, Hydrogen Sulfide and others may be present in the water. These gases may come out of solution as the water temperature increases.
Underground temperature changes in water sources (particularly in spring and fall) cause air to expand.
In these examples, the oxygenation causing the discolored water (small bubbles) may be unpleasant to look at but clears up in a short time. If not, the water company should be consulted. Any air found in the water is not considered harmful and will not cause any adverse effects.
Why is the water gray/black in color?
Magnesium, a harmless and colorless chemical, will occasionally mix with oxygen, which then creates a black color in your water. Even though a reaction has occurred, the chemical is still harmless, and the water safe to drink.
Why is the water rusty/brown in color?
This condition is usually caused by a buildup of materials inside of the tank. These materials can be comprised of water softener resin, rust from plumbing systems, sand, clay, and other naturally occurring substances.
A possible remedy for any of the above conditions is to drain the tank and thoroughly flush the inside surface. See flush procedure.
Why do I run out of hot water?
Either your system is not providing its maximum supply of hot water, or your hot water demand is too great for the system.
There is only one way to determine whether or not a water heater is operating properly. Immediately after the water heater has completed its heating cycle, all of the hot water should be drawn from the heater at approximately 3 gallons a minute, and the temperature measured in the process. This can be done with the use of a standard mercury thermometer and a standard 3 or 5 gallon bucket. Note the number of buckets of water drawn off to reach a point 30 degrees lower than the highest temperature. Multiply the number of buckets drawn off by 3 (or 5) (the number of gallons per bucket.) This figure should then equal, or exceed, 70% of the rated capacity of the heater.
If 70% of your volume capacity is efficiently drawn off and operating recovery time is normal, then it can only be concluded that your demands are greater than the water heater’s delivery ability.
Why is my water heater making noises?
There are two main conditions that may cause tank noise; Water Hammer and Mineral Build-up.
Water Hammer - Water hammer occurs when this non-compressible liquid, flowing through a pipe at a given pressure and velocity, is stopped abruptly by quick closing valves such as solenoid valves on clothes washers and dishwashers. Single lever faucets can also create these “shock waves.”
Consequently, damage can result to piping, water meters, storage tanks, water heaters, temperature and pressure relief valves and pressure regulator gauges.
This kinetic energy force can be controlled by installation of water hammer arrestors, expansion tanks, or pressure only relief valves in cold water make-up lines at 25 to 50 pounds less than the temperature and pressure relief valve setting on the water heater.
Mineral Build-up - The noisy condition is a result of lime formations or sediment collecting on the tank bottom or on electrical elements. It is not uncommon to find quantities of sand and other minerals settling out of the water and onto the tank bottom.
Hand cleaning of parts by scrubbing or vinegar may help to reduce build-up. Flushing the tank is also an option, but removing all of the materials may prove difficult on electrical models. If the build-up is not addressed, the system may require element replacements.
In hard water areas, the best solution for eliminating the noise problem is to install a water softener, to inhibit scale build-up.
What general maintenance should be done on my water heater?
Professional technicians should perform most repairs and maintenance. However, here are a few measures you can take yourself:
Ensure that there are no sources of flammable vapors in the same area as your water heater (this includes gasoline, heating oils, lighter fluid, propane, etc.)
Keep the top of the water heater clean. If you notice water dripping on the water heater from any piping, contact a plumbing professional to have the leak repaired.
Keep the space around your water heater clean and free of dirt, boxes, paint cans, aerosol cans, household cleaners and trash. It is important to keep the heater accessible for proper operation and easy maintenance.
Drain 1 to 2 gallons per month.
Have the anode rod inspected periodically.
Refer to the I&O manual for complete maintenance instructions.
Where can I get parts for my water heater?
The best place to find Bradford White water heaters and water heater parts is to ask your plumbing professional. If he/she cannot get them, contact a local dealer. Your local Bradford White representative can help you locate dealers who carry BW parts.
How do I drain my water heater?
INSTRUCTIONS TO FLUSH YOUR WATER HEATER:
On a gas water heater, turn the gas valve to the off position. On an electric water heater, turn the electric off to the heater.
Shut the cold water off to the water heater.
Open a hot water faucet.
Connect a hose to the drain valve on the heater and run to a drain.
Open the drain valve and allow the tank to completely drain.
Turn back on the cold water into the water heater.
Allow the water to run through the water heater and out of the drain valve. Do this for approximately five (5) or ten (10) minutes.
Close the drain valve and allow the tank to refill, keeping the hot water faucet open. When water comes out of the faucet, the tank is full.
How do I adjust the temperature on my water heater?
Locate the thermostat dial on the side of your water heater.
Rotate the dial clockwise to increase the water temperature, and counter-clockwise to reduce the temperature.
Check the I&O manual for proper operational adjustment procedures.
How often are you supposed to flush the water heater?
You should flush your hot water tank once every 6 months. If your local water is harder or contains more minerals, you may need to do so on a more frequent basis. At a minimum, drain 1 to 2 gallons of water from the drain valve monthly.
We’ve become one of the largest manufacturers of residential and light commercial air conditioning, heating, and indoor air quality products and systems by focusing on just one thing—building the most reliable and refreshingly affordable indoor comfort products in the market.
The complete line of Goodman® brand products are built on the principles of founder Harold Goodman, a former air conditioning contractor.
Harold’s goal was to manufacture air conditioning and heating equipment that:
-Provides industry leading product warranties
-Offers greater reliability and longer-lasting performance than competing products
-Is designed for quick, trouble-free installations
-Makes reliable cooling and heating as affordable as possible.
Building our products to Harold’s standards, and protecting those products with some of the best limited warranties in the industry, has helped to make the Goodman brand widely recognized as a leading brand in the residential and light commercial heating, ventilation and air conditioning industry today.
Heating and cooling systems work incredibly hard to perform their functions for your household. The constant stopping, starting and continual operation can wear down a machine quickly and unexpectedly if the proper care and maintenance is delayed. However, by performing preventive maintenance, or servicing your system regularly, you can maximize the lifecycle of your heating or cooling unit and guard against many unexpected failures
Preventive maintenance inspections performed on a regular basis can uncover leaks, rust, rot, soot, frayed wires and corroded electrical contacts.
What equipment requires preventive maintenance?
At least once a year, we suggest that homeowners schedule a professional tune-up for the central heating and cooling system in their home.
Inspections on boiler and furnace systems should include ductwork, pipes, dampers, valves, the chimney, registers, radiators, pumps, blowers, fuel lines, the gas meter, oil tank and every part of the actual furnace and boiler.
Meanwhile, heat pump and air conditioning unit inspections should also include inspections of the fan, compressor, indoor coils, outdoor coils and refrigerant lines.
What type of filter should I use?
Standard furnace filters work well to keep your system and its ductwork clean, but they don’t really improve indoor air quality. To do that you need a media filter. The media filter rests between the main return duct and the blower cabinet and will improve dust and particle removal by seven times that of a standard furnace filter. However, upgrading to a pleated media filter will remove everything from insecticide dust to airborne viruses from the filtered air.
A media filter can have a life exceeding two years, and its only drawback is that its tight fiber weave can cause your furnace to have to work harder to blow air through the house. Always choose a filter that matches your blower’s capacity.
What are the preventive maintenance measures for my ducts?
Although modern technology has made significant advances in air filters over the past decade, a fractional amount of dust still finds its way past heating and cooling filters and into your home’s ducts. As this dust accumulates throughout your home, it creates the perfect environment for the growth of mold, mites and harmful bacteria. To check your ducts for dust buildup, pull off several supply and return registers and see how much dust has accumulated in the system. If you choose to clean your system, your best option is to contact a professional duct cleaner.
Although duct cleaning has little effect on the actual air quality, it will eliminate a house-wide breeding ground for harmful bacteria and mold in addition to helping your heating and cooling system operate more efficiently. If you are installing a new system, you should consider cleaning the ducts at the same time. New systems are often more powerful than old systems and can stir up dust that is sitting in the existing ductwork.
What is the most efficient way to run my heating and cooling system?
Here are several tips to help you keep your system running at its most efficient level:
Keep your thermostat at a constant temperature; the recommended temperature is 78º, even when no one is home.
Change your filters every month.
Check the outside condensing unit regularly for any grass clippings or leaves stuck to the coil. If it is dirty:
Disconnect the power at the circuit breaker FIRST!
Use a shop-vac with a brush attachment to vacuum off the debris.
Run water from a garden hose through the coil until the water passing through it is clear.
Turn the power back on.
Have the unit serviced every spring by a licensed service company.
Why should I purchase a new heating or air conditioning system?
Efficiency and cost savings
At Goodman Manufacturing Company, L.P., we realize that purchasing a heating or air conditioning system is no small matter. However, if your existing system is old, in need of repair or simply inefficient, purchasing a new unit, one which can be as much as 60% more efficient than a system purchased just 10 years ago, can offer long-term benefits.
Rather than continuing to pay for ongoing maintenance and costly monthly bills, invest in a new system today that will save you money for years to come.
How can I find the system that’s right for me?
Get the facts from an expert
There are many heating and air conditioning systems to choose from today. Your Goodman dealer can draw on a vast degree of heating and air conditioning knowledge and experience to help you decide on the system that best fits your specific needs. The size and age of your home, as well as the number of rooms, climate, local and regional utility costs, and utility incentive/rebate programs are all factors that will affect the functionality and, therefore, selection of your system. Goodman dealers, utilizing the latest technology, consider all these factors while assisting you in choosing the best system for your home.
Consumers seeking to replace an existing system often choose a new unit with equal or higher efficiency ratings compared to their previous system. Replacing a unit that is 10- to 15-years-old may reduce natural gas or electricity costs by 30 to 50%.
Contact a Goodman dealer to help determine initial cost, warranty protection, service options, maintenance options, operating cost and proper installation. You can also get a copy of the product warranty from any dealer.
How do I determine the size, or capacity, of my HVAC system?
Schedule a Goodman Manufacturing dealer visit
Factors affecting the size of your new system include the climate in your region, humidity levels, the number of windows in your dwelling, total square footage of your home, the direction your home faces, the number of heat-producing appliances in your home, the type of insulation you have and the number of people that live in your residence.
A Goodman dealer can perform the proper calculations to determine the appropriate heating or cooling unit for your home and lifestyle.
What goes into installing a new system?
It’s all about the ductwork.
Putting a new system in a home that has not had central air and heat before will require the installation of ductwork, insulation, refrigerant piping, electrical service, wiring, thermostat, condensate piping, flue piping, flue terminations, chimney liner, slabs, filter, driers, registers, grills, drain pans and evaporator coil. Beyond equipment, the most important component installed with a new system, however, is the ductwork.
Ductwork is composed of two parts, supply and return. Supply duct is attached to the outflow of the new system, delivering air to each zone in a home. The amount of air reaching each zone is determined by the size of supply ductwork connecting it to your system. Your dealer will help you determine the size of all the supply ductwork in your home.
The second part of the ductwork, the return duct, attaches to the inlet of the new system and draws air out of the spaces to be heated or cooled. Attached to the return duct is the filter. The filter should be placed as near to the furnace or air handler as possible. Ductwork can be either fiberglass or metal and must be properly sized in order to evenly distribute the proper amount of air to each room.
What happens when I replace my old system?
Start with a detailed inspection
To install the most efficient HVAC system in your household, a detailed inspection should first be performed by your installation contractor.
The inspection by your contractor should include, as a minimum, the inspection of your home’s ductwork, insulation, refrigerant piping, electrical service, wiring, thermostat, condensate piping, flue piping, flue terminations, chimney liner, slabs, filter, driers, registers, grills, drain pans and evaporator coil.
How long will my system last?
Proper maintenance is key
Maintenance and service play a key role in the life-cycle of a heating or air conditioning system. If all recommended maintenance and service actions are taken, an air conditioner can last 12 to 15 years and a gas furnace 20 to 25 years.
Do I need to change my indoor coil?
It is generally a good idea to replace the indoor coil if you are also replacing your air conditioner or heat pump. There is a correlation between the efficiency of your heating or cooling system and the performance of the indoor coil and changing out the current indoor coil for a new one may be critical to optimizing the performance, the efficiency and the savings potential of your new system.
Where can I locate my air handler or furnace system?
You may have options based on your home’s design
The system can actually be located in several different places. A system with up-flow application might be located in the basement, while a system with a horizontal application may be found in your attic. A self-contained, or single package unit, could be located outside on a slab or on the roof. Your garage could house an up-flow, down-flow or horizontal application system.
What is a heat pump?
Air movement from point A to point B
A heat pump is a device used for either the heating or cooling of a space by transferring hot and cold between two reservoirs.
A heat pump can act like an air conditioner, transferring heat from inside to out, or like a heater as it transfers exterior heat to the interior. A winter day with a temperature of 32º Fahrenheit still produces enough heat to warm a space when the air is transferred by heat pump.
What can I do to control the humidity levels in my home?
It’s all about variability
Humidity levels can be reduced by using a variable-speed furnace or air handler as part of your HVAC system. Variable speed units run longer, at lower speeds, allowing air to constantly circulate against the cooling coil and remove more moisture.
Variable-speed motors also use less electricity than regular motors, reducing your energy costs.
What can I do before calling someone to service my system?
HVAC systems are complicated networks of machinery that should be serviced by a certified professional. However, if your HVAC system seems to be malfunctioning, you can try a few basic steps, which may correct your problem, prior to calling a service professional. If you do not feel comfortable performing any of these tasks, however, do not hesitate to call an HVAC contractor.
Disconnect and reconnect your indoor and outdoor switches.
Make sure your circuit breakers are in the ON position.
Make sure your filters are clean.
Open supply and return vents and make sure they are unobstructed.
Check the settings on your thermostat.
Make sure the system switch is on the appropriate COOL or HEAT setting.
What is AFUE?
AFUE is the abbreviation for Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency ratio. AFUE is used to rate furnace efficiencies by dividing the ratio of heat output by heat input. This measurement describes how well fuel, gas or oil is consumed to produce heat by a furnace. As the AFUE rate increases, the efficiency of your furnace also increases, lowering your fuel costs. Furnaces manufactured in the United States are required to have at least an 80% AFUE.
What is HSPF?
HSPF is the abbreviation for the Heating Seasonal Performance Factor, which is a rating of the efficiency level of the heating operation of a heat pump. The higher the HSPF, the more efficient the heating performance of a heat pump. New units in the United States have HSPF ratings from 7.0 to 9.4.
What is R-22?
R-22 is the common name for hydro-chlorofluorocarbon (HCFC). R-22 has been used as a refrigerant by HVAC manufacturers for over 40 years, but studies in the past decade have shown that HCFCs contain chlorine, an ozone-depleting agent. For this reason, the United States Clean Air Act has set a target date for January 1, 2010, on which HVAC manufacturers must cease the production of products that use R-22.
What is R-410A?
R-410A is the common name for an emerging hydro-fluorocarbon (HFC) that is being used as a refrigerant in the HVAC industry. R-410A is more environmentally friendly than R-22 and is being seen as the most likely replacement for R-22 by HVAC manufacturers. At the beginning of 2010, the use of alternate refrigerant will be required in HVAC manufacturing.
What is ENERGY STAR?
ENERGY STAR is a program that was created by the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) to help businesses and individuals make energy efficient purchases.
This program places the ENERGY STAR label, a small blue and white logo, on items that meet superior energy efficiency standards. This label provides an easy way for consumers to identify quality, high efficiency products.
For more information about the Energy Star program, please view their website at www.energystar.gov.
Facts: A furnace works to keep a home warm in the winter and plays a critical part in the operation of an air conditioning system.
Furnaces produce heat through the combustion of natural gas in the furnace's burner. The heat produced from this process then passes through a heat exchanger. Air from your home's return air ducts is blown over the heat exchanger, thus warming the air.
The furnace's blower then blows the warmed air into the duct work, which carries and disperses the warmed air throughout the home.
During warmer months, the blower inside a furnace continues to circulate return air throughout the home--only this time, the return air has been cooled by being blown over the indoor coil portion of the home's split-system air conditioning system. The evaporator coil is typically installed downstream of the furnace.
Benefits: Indoor warmth any time it is required.
Energy efficiency-The efficiency of a furnace can be determined by its AFUE--or Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency. The minimum efficiency level for furnaces currently manufactured in the U.S. is 80% AFUE. A rating of "80% AFUE" means that for every dollar you spend heating your home; 80 cents are actually applied to the generation of warmth. Compared to many of the 60% AFUE furnaces in older homes, 80% AFUE furnaces are a significant improvement. However, for enhanced energy efficiency, you may wish to consider a 95% AFUE furnace, such as Goodman's line of 95% AFUE Furnaces.
Cleaner air -As your HVAC system draws air out of various rooms in the house through return air ducts, the air is pulled through an air filter, which removes airborne particles such as dust and lint. Sophisticated filters may remove microscopic pollutants, as well. The filtered air is then routed to air supply duct work that carries it back to rooms. Whenever the HVAC system is running, this cycle repeats continually, constantly filtering and cleaning the air in your home.
This cleaning process improves with the installation of a variable-speed furnace. Variable-speed furnaces use variable-speed blowers, which shift between several speeds. These furnaces will run longer at a low speed, which causes them to filter the indoor air more frequently.
And remember - because the furnace plays an important role in the operation of the air conditioner, its variable-speed blower helps maintain both a consistent indoor temperature and improved air quality year-round.
The typical central air conditioning system is a split system, with an outdoor air conditioning, or "compressor bearing unit" and an indoor coil, which is usually installed on top of the furnace in the home.
Using electricity as its power source, the compressor pumps refrigerant through the system to gather heat and moisture from indoors and remove it from the home.
Heat and moisture are removed from the home when warm air from inside the home is blown over the cooled indoor coil. The heat in the air transfers to the coil, thereby "cooling" the air.
The heat that has transferred to the coil is then "pumped" to the exterior of the home, while the cooled air is pumped back inside, helping to maintain a comfortable indoor temperature.
Central air conditioning can also be provided through a package unit or a heat pump
Benefits: Indoor comfort during warm weather - Central air conditioning helps keep your home cool and reduces humidity levels
Cleaner air -As your central air conditioning system draws air out of various rooms in the house through return air ducts, the air is pulled through an air filter, which removes airborne particles such as dust and lint. Sophisticated filters may remove microscopic pollutants, as well. The filtered air is then routed to air supply duct work that carries it back to rooms.
Quieter operation - Because the compressor bearing unit is located outside the home, the indoor noise level from its operation is much lower than that of a free-standing air conditioning unit.